(In which I accomplish one of my Jordanian goals)

Tonight we had the host-family dinner, where all the students and their host families - over 75 of us and plus the families - get all dressed up and go to a nice hotel ballroom and eat a zaky kiteer (very tasty) dinner.

In the ballroom beside us just happened to be a wedding.

Just as our program ended, we filed out to the curved marble staircase leading from the lower floor where we were up to the lobby. We could not, however, go up because the groom and bride were coming down. Surrounding them were their family and friends; behind them was the group of singing men in dishdasha with hand drums.

We, of course, joined in with the general ululation and hand clapping. I'm sure the bride was wondering what all these Americans were doing at her wedding. I could see, however, the fear in the (very good looking) groom's eye.

"Who's paying for all these extra people?"

Now I've done it all.....

Coming home today in a taxi was quite the adventure. After some general horn-honking and confusion in the bus area, our taxi pulled out into traffic.

Beside us pulled out another taxi; the driver was a friend of our driver's.

This was evident because the two taxis drove inches from each other for quite a distance as the drivers chatted through the open windows. The buzzing traffic snarled about us. I was ready to see Jesus a lot sooner than I had planned on.

Petra, day 3

Awoke at a bit more reasonable time today, realizing that an early start wouldn't happen. Another delicious breakfast, and another stop for hummus and falafel. We decided to explore Petra's city center, which we did. We meandered along and posed in front of the tri-partite arch . Meandering along, we came to the Great Temple Complex and I, at least, had a grand time clambering over rocks. From there, to Qasr Al-Bint (Castle of the Girl), a large freestanding temple. According to legend, the princess said she would marry the man who could give it running water. I suppose human nature never changes. Human nature being what it is, I amused myself by discovering a slightly hidden doorway and going through it, climbing steps to climb onto the top of the building, walking around its crumbling roof walls to get a lovely view.

A hot walk to see some Byzantine churches - one in which a Spanish Roman Catholic group was holding a service (it was Sunday, after all) - and then on for a walk through the desert in order to get to some more tomb complexes.

And can I here insert what a trooper my traveling companion was? No complaints, even when I dragged her through the desert with no real path in sight. I had a marvelous time, but I don't think it was quite her idea of fun. However, I regaled her with the stories of what I was pretending as we trekked through the sand at noonday: I was the wife of a Roman general, station in Petra following its annexation by Trajan (in 106 A.D.) We had just returned from offering our sacrifices and libations in the Great Temple and from getting our meat from the macellum. A quick stop at the Nymphaeum, and now we were trudging back to our cool home cleft in the rocks. She was my slave, the daughter of a proud Nabataean family who had resisted the annexation. However, her lover was a proud Bedouin man who would eventually come to raid the proud Romans, destroying half the city and rescuing her to live with him in the desert. Their children would eventually come to live in the Badea and assist Lawrence with the Arab Revolt; their reward would be a rich piece of land in the place that would become the capital of the new country.

As we got farther in the desert, I imagined being lost and stranded there for days, dying a slow and painful death - eventually becoming nothing more than the bleached white bones of the goat we saw. I did not, however, tell my friend this. She might have killed me.

At her prompting, we found a nice cave - one or two of the tombs we had come to had been taken over by the goats - and had our lunch. We emerged to do some more exploring, making our way over to the more accessible town facade. This time I amused myself by pretending to be in Bedrock, on my way to visit the Flintstones.

Finally we reached the main tomb complex again, and made our way back to town. We puttered about for awhile, waiting until we could get on the bus that would take us back to Amman.

Petra rocks!

Any given Wednesday...

This is as good a day as any to take you through a normal Wednesday in my life. (I just turned in an Amiyya homework that did it in Arabic, but I thought you might appreciate the English. You are welcome.)

I cannot say that I woke up this morning, because I didn't wake up this morning (or this afternoon, for that matter), since I had stayed up all night working on a paper for my history class. Its title was "Transjordanian participation in the world wars and its effect upon nation building." I started the paper around 1am and had five pages finished by 6:45am when I needed to get my things together to leave by 7am.

Here is a picture of my wardrobe (in which, unfortunately, reside no Lions, Dwarves, or Fauns - I've checked) and here is a picture of what I see when I look outside the window. Although you cannot see it in the picture, directly below me is a small patio with an abundant overgrowth of vines and plants that bear the flower - the perfect sanctuary for the Cat Mother and her three small kittens. I just discovered them yesterday and have enjoyed watching them tumble over themselves and practice their urban jungle survival skills.

I grabbed a piece of bread with the lebeneh cheese spread and jam, hastily gathered my things, and went on my way to a pleasant walk up to the place where I meet my classmate so we can share a taxi from our neighborhood to the University. It really is a lovely walk, if a bit hilly. (Actually, that last one doesn't show any hills, but believe me - they are there, lurking, waiting to destroy my quads and hamstrings and other muscle groups I'd rather not think about.)

I arrived at the location, only to realize I had a text from her saying she wouldn't be there that morning due to work. So, I hailed a cab, made sure I memorized his number and then told him to the University. On my way, I worked on my homework for Amiyya about what I do every day.

I arrived at the classroom, surprised to find the classroom door open, and took my usual seat. I studied for a few minutes and the others trickled in. Dr. Muna arrived, and we teased her a bit about being on time because yesterday her alarm clock had broke and she slept in, missing the first half hour of class. We then reviewed some vocabulary and took our quiz (all about telling time, yay!).

So, the moment class was over I took my computer and hightailed my little self over to the office building where I could study in this "Knowledge Society Club" arrangement, using their internet. I finished most of my paper in the 3 hours I have between classes, then headed back to the giant yellow banana building (it's curved and yellow) that houses the language department in order to take my Archaeology class. I, for the first time, hauled out my laptop and used it to take notes while I proof-read my paper. Paper got corrected and I got complete notes for class - it was full of win for everyone except my poor back which had to lug it around all the time.

Then, back to the KSC to print out my 13 pages - for a dinar 30. *grumble* I had thought we were supposed to get 10 free pages of printing/day with our membership, but apparently not.

This was followed by the 30 minute walk across campus, past the School of Medicine, the School of Pharmacy into the College of Rehab Sciences, where I had my class. I presented my paper.

Then the 30 minute walk back to Suicide Alley to pick up a bus to Raghadan. Then at Raghadan to wait for 30 minutes for the bus home (only 90 piasters, though, instead of 220!). Once home, I helped cut up lots of vegetables for our dinner salad. Ummy, yummy food, now writing this.

Petra, day 2

Here is the link to the photos from Petra for days 1-3! Also, the first several pictures are of the inside of my host home.

Here is the rundown of Petra, day 2

It began as I awoke ridiculously early, wanting to get to the site early enough to go climb a few mountains. My traveling companion had other ideas, and so she slept a little bit longer and we had a later continental breakfast (which was amazing: loads of bread, smothered with rich jams, and dark and succulent dates to savor). Finally, we headed out for the day, stopping at a local falafel shop to pick up a container of hummus and some falafel for our lunch. We also brought a big container of water; all if it was worth it, but we did have to carry it around all day. God to the site around 10 and decided to climb up the the High Place of Sacrifice and then back, because we had made plans to meet up at 1 with some other students from our program who were coming for the day. It was a lovely, if brutal, climb. I, however, enjoyed it immensely as I convinced myself I was Frodo, climbing up the Stairs to Mordor, only the very rocks themselves had been stained red and not black due to the blood that had seeped through from Shelob's desecrations. It was a fun hike. We got to the top, saw some obelisks, took some pictures, and then I hiked up a bit further to see the platform where the ancient place of sacrifice had been. Coming back down, I got a text from one of the coming students, saying, oh, could we meet earlier? They were still at the hotel, so I told them it would probably take an hour for them to get there. I went back to my friend, and tried to climb down to the basin area to see the Lion Triclinium. had a fun moment, as I went over to a rock outcropping to get a particular picture, and then another tour group followed me, thinking I knew the way down to the Triclinium. Just takin' a photo, here, peoples. Nothing to see, move along. After that, we hiked a bit further down the path, but finally decided that we wouldn't make it back there in time; so I had to leave my Roman era tombs unexplored. *Sniff* *Sniff*. Went back to where we were supposed to meet them - on the way, met one of them hiking up the same path we had just come; I gave him the lay of the land, and convinced him to go to the Monastery. Finally got back to where we were to meet the rest of the group; we had 20 minutes to spare, but they weren't there. I left my friend to sit on a bench - and befriend some cute little Bedouin children - while I ran around to hike up another face of the mountain to see some of the Royal Tombs I hadn't seen the other day. Had a great sense of exploration and conquering places I shouldn't be allowed, until I saw another tour group coming towards me. Damped the sense of conquering a bit, I must say, to see old French ladies marching towards you. Oh, well. I was there first. Got back just at the stroke of 12 and met with the other friends. We walked towards the Monastery, and my travelling companion convinced the rest of us that taking a donkey up the steep climb was the best way to go - which it was. She argued the man down to 4JD/person for the donkey trip; she had been told it was 5JD by the little boy she had met while waiting for me. The donkey ride was a lot of fun - much more comfortable than a camel! Saw the Monastery (actually, a feasting room to the memory of the deceased and deified King Obodas, who died around 86BC, but, anyway). Sat down with my friend to eat lunch. We were approached by a large white dog, his tail gently wagging. We tore off half a biscuit to throw away to get rid of him; but he wouldn't be gotten rid of until another large dog cam running at him, barking and snarling. There was a dog fight in front of us and around us. It was, I must admit, one of the more harrowing experiences in my time in Jordan. Finally, some guys found some stones to throw at them and they took their fight away. The white dog then returned - we had a bag filled with the hummus that had spilled during our day's hiking that he wanted. I tried to take it with us, but after he went after my leg, I decided that littering was a better choice than getting rabies or fleas or bot-flies or trypanosoma or prostate cancer or whatever other scary medical condition I could think of. My friend and I walked back; had fun browsing at all the Bedouin knick-knack stalls, and she bought some things. By now, it was around 3pm; we had planned to see a few more sites, but the heavens opened and the rains came down - we hid in a cave, but we were already soaked. Back to the hotel - hot showers and internet once again.

Petra, day 1

Here is the link for pictures from day 1 of Petra!

The short version:

Went to bed frustrated because the internet was gone and I had the final part of a group project due; it was cold and rainy and none of the bus company numbers I had tried worked. Woke early today and it was *still* cold and raining heavily. Walked a great deal before finally getting a cab; very nervous I wouldn't make it in time for the 6:30 am bus. I did, however, and we got two of the last 5 seats on the bus. Waited with a lot of German, French, and Russian tourists. Uneventful bus ride, although my lovely traveling partner did bring food that I obligingly ate :-)

Got here and got a taxi; email from the hotel had said it would be 2JD (which really is generous). Like fools, didn't establish the price before hand....he tried to make us pay five at the end. He had to settle for 3 as he cussed us out. Lovely man. Room wasn't ready (checkout is at 2:30, what can I say), so we had a glass of tea while waiting. Got to our rooms, got wonderful internet access and got my assignments submitted. Then, a 1JD taxi ride to the opening - no maps available because the building is under renovation - and we got our 1JD tickets, instead of the normal 50JD or so. Being a Jordanian resident rocks! Went in and explored. Saw disgusting evidence and displays of public urination. Saw much other general "Haram-ness" (come on, ladies, you really should wear more than a camisole and short-shorts here!) at which I, in my long sleeved sweater and jeans, sadly clicked my tongue. Had fun climbing about. Pondered how the giant sand-stone walls made me feel under-water. Also ate an absolutely enormous sandwich for lunch, sitting in an old tomb, over looking the Wall of Facades. Thought deeply about the transitory nature of humanity and our accomplishments, standing in front of the nearly worn away Theatre build in the time of Christ. Beautiful weather, day, and company! Walked back to the entrance in the cool of the evening, got a 1JD taxi back to the hotel; then to lovely, steaming hot showers and more internet. You can see the pictures for yourself. Lovely day!

Ich habe genug....

*Sigh*

I was going to have a complaining moment or day or blog post or silent, primal scream.

However, Dietrich Fischer Dieskau, a good dinner, and a little old fashioned conviction do wonders for one's frustrations.

So, I will leave you with the words from JSBach's cantata for the Feast of the Purification, based on Simeon's canticle:

Ich habe genug I have enough

Ich habe den Heiland, das Hoffen der Frommen, I have held the Saviour, the hope of all people
Auf meine begierigen Arme genommen; In the warm embrace of my arms;
Ich habe genug! I have enough!

Ich hab ihn erblickt, I have seen him,
Mein Glaube hat Jesum ans Herze gedrückt; My faith has impressed Jesus on my heart.
Nun wünsch ich, noch heute mit Freuden Now I wish this very day with joy
Von hinnen zu scheiden. From here to depart.

Ich habe genug. It is enough.
Mein Trost ist nur allein, My one consolation is this:
Dass Jesus mein und ich sein eigen möchte sein. That Jesus is mine and I am His.
Im Glauben halt ich ihn, In faith I hold him
Da seh ich auch mit Simeon For I already see in Simeon
Die Freude jenes Lebens schon. The joy of life to come.
Laßt uns mit diesem Manne ziehn! Let us go forth with this man.
Ach! möchte mich von meines Leibes Ketten Oh! If only from my body's enslavement
Der Herr erretten; The Lord would free me;
Ach! wäre doch mein Abschied hier, Oh! If indeed my liberation were soon,
Mit Freuden sagt ich, Welt, zu dir: With Joy I would say, O World, to you:
Ich habe genug. I have enough.

Jordanian Culture Moment (Lahza Al-thuqafa Al-Urdineey)

My host father beckoned me over to the window.

"Come, see what they are doing outside."

In the street below was a grey van parked beside the half-built apartment complex opposite us. The fan was half-filled with men in keffiyah and khaki dish-dash like clothing. They were waiting as five of the others formed a semi-circled and practiced dabkeh on our street. Two or three of them stood to the side, laughing and playing hand-drums. One man in modern garb stood at their other side directing them.

I went to get my camera; but when I returned, they were gone as unexpectedly as they had come.

Lunch adventures

I had a lovely lunch today at a fast-food place called Lebnani Snack. It's a ME version of McDonald's.

On the menu today was lamb brain sandwich. It was pretty good, but a little spicy.

I think I'll have to return to try their hot spleen sandwich.

Easter Salutations!

Spent Easter weekend just beyond the Jordan and had a wonderful time!

If you want the details or pictures, you'll have to ask for them once I get back to the States.

Christ is risen! He is risen indeed, hallelujah!