Exploring

Awoke early before my alarm, because I was anxious about straightening out the matter of switching from my private room to the program-sponsored room and getting breakfast. I ate breakfast first – and what a wonderful breakfast it was! The hotel information had merely said that a “buffet breakfast” was served in their dining room from 6:30 to 10 but did not mention if it was free or not. I arrived at the lobby-level entrance where there was a sign saying, “Please wait to be seated.” Being an American who likes to obey signs, I waited. I suspicioned that I could seat myself, but didn’t want to be rude and walk all over someone’s special job of seating the hungry breakfast patrons in a nearly empty room. Finally one of the busboys noticed my standing there. “Please, please,” he said and I took that to mean please, seat yourself and stop standing there like a fool who actually tries to observe the written instructions. Or something like that.

I sat in a corner seat by the window, from which I watched the apartment across the way having its outer balconies cleaned by a maid. The buffet breakfast was sumptuous: although I saw an assortment of pancakes, potatoes, and spam, I decided on fish, grilled tomato, cheese, a boiled egg, and a vegetable type thing. The vegetable side was pickled: carrots and pepper and some sort of root that looked like a potato but was much firmer. The pickling was too much for me, though. The fish, however, was the best I have ever tasted. I have no idea what kind of fish it was, but it was good! The coffee, too, was excellent. Across from me a couple from Spain sat talking which was fun to hear.

I then went back upstairs and switched my belongings to my new room (arranged for the week through CIEE). My roommate arrived: she is from Philadelphia, studying English and Film. While she went to get breakfast, I went out walking around the hotel area. There is a pedestrian bridge going up and across the street: I crossed it and stood above, watching the traffic. The weather was perfect - the rain had just ended and it was chilly enough that I had to go back in to get my scarf to keep my ears warm.

Back at the hotel, met up with my roommate again to go out exploring and perhaps get lunch. Instead, we met with several other CIEE students who had arrived or emerged from their dorms. We also met with a CIEE staff, who gave us our orientation packets. Then we all set out to explore. This meant getting two cabs to Rainbow street, where we walked along the row of shops. We ate lunch where the pickled vegetable thing showed up again. Then we meandered along until we came to a bookstore aimed mainly, I assume, at American expats. It had a wide selection of modern, Evangelical books: authors such as Tim LaHaye, Bode Thoene, and Gary Smalley were well represented. Let me just say that the Left Behind series is not one that I expected to find in a bookstore in the middle of Amman, Jordan.

Back along the street to whence we came, stopping at a bakery and a coffee shop. Then finally, another cab back to the hotel. We got our phones (I made a call home) and then I returned to the room to read the orientation material before supper. Supper, catered by the hotel for the CIEE group, was also beyond amazing. Grilled eggplant, carrots, and some other green vegetables I couldn’t identify. There was a plain white dessert type thing that had the consistency of a mix between flan and a Whip yogurt. It didn’t have much taste, but there was an orange-type sauce to put on it. There was also mango juice. So it was a very good supper indeed!

And now, to bed!

Date line

I left Chicago yesterday being a certain age. I arrived in Amman today being a whole year older.

Not to worry, though. I expect it to reverse itself when I go back.

Flight Details

The flight itself – apart from the lack of sleep – was amazing! Based on this one experience, I would heartily recommend RJ: they completely beat U.S. / United Airways and came close to what I remember of British Airways of the 90s.

Of course, childhood memories are rather disappointing guides in some things. The chairs, for one, were not the comfortable and enormous monstrosities I remembered from my last Atlantic flight. My feet actually reached the floor, which was disappointing. However, where childish expectations fail, technology surpasses. There was an in-flight screen on the seats in front; I had access to music, movies, television, and an automatic track the airplane map!

First I browsed through the music, staring with the Arabic channel. I discovered two things about Arabic music: they all began with a 2 minute instrumental intro that was not based on any recognizable Western style of rhythm and I could understand most of the songs because they consisted of habibti repeated assiduously and with boy-band ardour. This amused me greatly. (And I exaggerate – a bit. There was one fun song – Leek Lewadek? – that had a really good beat, though.) Then I turned to the classical station: the History of Classical Music was available – beginning with Gregorian chant. This was interesting, until I discovered the movies. I watched Toy Story 3 which I hadn’t seen before – so that is enough to make any flight pretty good.

Then they served the food about an hour after take-off. I am so accustomed to not eating ever on a plane (there’s never any need to), that I was surprised at its sudden appearance after a complimentary beverage (mango juice!) and roasted peanuts. The mango juice was wonderful – this, again, alone would have made any flight delightful. But then, I got more mango juice with the meal. I like mango juice.

I tried to sleep, but there were no comfortable positions. So I watched the Guardians of Ga’Hoole – a movie about owls that had *amazing* CGI animation and a somewhat derivative narrative.

Unfortunately, because of the times of the flight, there wasn’t a chance to look out the window. But it was still cool to see our course – we went just south of Dublin, heading from northwest to southeast across the southwest portion of France (west of Paris), flying across Santorini and then Tel Aviv. (Dad, aren’t you so impressed with my directions?). In between showing various views of our position, outside temperature (an average of -65F!) and altitude, and estimated time of arrival, they also showed an image detailing the direction of the plane with respect to Mecca.

Tried to sleep, but couldn’t; fortunately, having no body clock, I was wide awake when our second meal came. I had ordered vegetarian: there was a main dish, which was a bed of rice with vegetables on top. The first vegetable I couldn’t identify, other than it was some sort of sprouted dicotyledon (why, yes, I took Botany), similar in shape to a soy-bean but similar in taste to dried corn. There were tinned mushrooms, and then cucumber and carrot julienne in some sort of salty flavoring on top; the rest of the meal was very good rolls, tea or coffee, juice, and a fruit cup. It was, alas, not the humongous raspberries I remember from British Airways, but still very good.

I then played a game on the screen – the memory game, where you turn over pairs of cards. By this time, however, I was so tired I was doing very poorly. In fact, it was embarrassing. My embarrassment was only increased by the fact that the gentleman beside me had woken up and was watching the progress. When I got down to eight cards or so I was puzzling over, he pointed out a few and was correct. I then switched to hangman……which I think he would’ve beaten me at, as well.

A few minutes later, we began our descent and I closed the games. The first views I got of Jordan were very reassuring – the countryside looked like the brown patch-work quilt that Iowa is in the late fall.

Departure

There are few things in life more exciting than driving to the airport for personal reasons. Winning the Super Bowl? Probably. Driving up to the space shuttle to be launched to the International Space Station? I’ll grant you that much. Airports, however, are more generally more accessible.

Indeed, I was pleasantly surprised by O’Hare’s accessibility. I have always only flown domestically through there during the winter months; the uniform experience has been of crowded and noisy lobbies, delayed planes, and dullish grey slush. The international terminal was far superior – this time, at least. There were only two or three airlines even operating flights this evening, lending a quietness rarely seen at O’Hare.

I got my belongings together and stepped into one of the three lines for Royal Jordanian.

This should be interesting, I thought. I had heard about the Jordanian view of queuing: everyone gets as close to the front of the line as possible, and the pushiest one wins. I was again pleasantly surprised that the lines went nice and smoothly….until the poor attendant came to me.

Accustomed to domestic flying, I had my printed receipt, driver’s license, and passport all ready. Experienced traveler here to check in, I thought smugly.

“Could I see your passport?” The attendant ignored my ticket receipt and license. I pulled it from the bottom of the stack as I battled my purse and trying to balance my large duffel. I didn’t want to put my checked luggage on the weight machine because often, the attendants have wanted to check me in first, and then weigh the baggage. No, “You can put your baggage on the balance,” he said. “You are checking just one bag?”

“Yes.”

“You are mumble mumble just one?”

“Yes, just one bag.”

He looked at me.

I looked at him. I held up my first finger and smiled. “Just one.”

He looked back at me and slowly repeated the question.

Apparently, “Amman” and “Just one” sound the same.

“Amman! Oh, yes, I am going to Amman.” I took my passport and twitched to put it in my purse.

“Wait, wait, don’t go!” He reached after me. “You need your boarding ticket.”

“Oh. Yes.” I look down. “I can’t really board without that, can I?”

“No.”

Silence.

He finally handed me the ticket. I turned to go. “Wait,” he has pity on the obviously naïve American girl who has never traveled internationally (ha! I fooled him. I have…..just years ago.) “See here? You are on this seat. It is an aisle seat. Here is your boarding gate, see?. You just go around the corner. Now, there is no food back there, so you might want to wait about an hour before going through security. Okay?”

“Okay.” I walk away.

“Have a good flight!”

“Thank you!” I stop myself before saying, “You, too.”

The rest of the pre-boarding was uneventful. I sat with my parents until an hour before boarding, and then passed through security far more efficiently and easily than I ever have flying domestically.

I went to the lobby area to wait for boarding while reading. I quickly realized I was the only non-Arab female on the flight. I also quickly realized that I am probably the first person to be reading Comus while waiting for a flight to Jordan. (Yes, the only non-school book I brought was a collection of Milton’s poems.)

Again, I was pleasantly surprised as boarding began before the scheduled time and there were no issues with amorphous queues. I was quickly on the Royal Jordanian 340, seated on the aisle with an older Jordanian man beside the window, and a set of parents with two sick young children and a grandmother. I settled in to enjoy my flight.

Thoughts before departure

With one day left before I leave, I am finally realizing that I have to leave. It is not some nebulous future that is pleasant to imagine and plan for - it is a solid reality that means I will be spending four months in a country where I do not know another person (yet), where my language isn't the primary one, and Western-style flushing toilets are not common.

Fortunately, I still have seven months before I feel this way about medical school and realize that I have just signed up to spend hundreds of thousands of dollars in order to - gasp - study more.

I hope that research on learning by osmosis makes giant progress in the next seven months.

Mistaken Identity

Dear Friendly Neighborhood Bank Teller:

I apologize for scaring you today. Yes, I assure you, it was cold outside and the dark hat concealing much of my face and the large sunglasses concealing the rest were necessary. Yes, the black leather gloves were necessary, too. And the black coat. True, I admit I probably should have removed my big sunglasses inside, but I promise, I was only trying to avoid juggling sunglasses, hat, purse, and bank-receipts and was not trying to be suspicious.

Policy must have changed here, you know; last time I came, no one offered to check the balance of my account. So, proud that I had remembered, I asked you for a check statement. You looked nonplussed. "Do you mean.....a receipt on your balance?" Yes, yes indeed. "Okay," you said politely to the bundled stranger in front of you. I waited. You waited.

"Do you know your password?"

"Password? Why, did I put down the wrong account?"

Now you looked scared. This may not be the most common response among honest citizens when asked a password; I admit it may have looked as though I were trying to cash false checks into someone else's account only for nefarious purposes - really, I had just memorized my account number and thought it was correct.

"No, you have an account number. Do you have a password?"

"Ummmmm, nope?"

"Okay. Well, we can email it to you. Do you do online banking?"

Head-shake. "No."

"Really." You sounded incredulous. I don't know why; are we in the 21st century already? "Well, in that case, I need some ID. You do have ID?"

"Why do you need ID?"

I think I saw your fingers itching to get to the emergency alarm. "For recognition. We don't want to give account information to, you know, the wrong person."

Like I'm a suspicious character or something. What is this world coming to, I thought. "It might be in my purse." I started to dig. "Um, wait. I'm sorry. I don't have any ID with me.......it's in the car. Yes, in the car." I backed away. "I'll get it."

Now this, I think, scared you more; surely, I was going for my friend Mr. Smith&Wesson or to make a getaway. Really, my ID was with my keys in the car because someone else was driving. Totally innocent.

I return. I noticed your hands gripped beneath the counter as you peered towards the door. I happily plunked down my drivers' license. You peer at it and back at me. I wait. "Oh," I think out loud, "Should I take off my sunglasses so you can recognize me?"

By this time, you have realized that I am not a bank robber, terrorist, forger, or other dastardly deed-doer. You just want me gone and tranquility restored. "No, no that's fine. Facial recognition and all."

"Thank you," I chirp as I collect the precious balance receipt. "Have a good afternoon!"

So, you see, it was a completely innocent encounter and I'm sorry for any wrong conclusions you might have reached during our little interchange. I just hope you have fun telling the story of the black-masked, incompetent identity thief after work today. I'm glad I could add some excitement into your otherwise routine work.

You're welcome.

Sincerely,

Me

Why Jordan?

"Why Jordan?"

"Well, there's the food." I typically answer. "Falafel, hummus, you know...."

Blank stares.

"It's in a good location for traveling. Syria? Lebanon?"

Consternation.

"Um, the program is academically rigorous. I'm looking forward to taking 21 credits!"

Sounds of pity.

"In truth, there are at least six main reasons, with four subpoints a-piece. To begin, point A....Oh, you must go? Must you? I suppose...."

Truly, though, I do have well thought out reasons for this apparently surprising choice of study abroad locale; only, short conversations aren't the best for explaining. There is a bit more to it than falafel and wanting a break from Physical Chemistry:

1. Practicality

I've finished my majors and minors, leaving me with one semester before medical school. Why stay in the midwest when I could be overseas? I wanted a language program that would be challenging and in a location to which I would not be likely to visit again. Due to the ease of tourism throughout Europe, the programs available through Cedarville remaining were either in India or Jordan.

2. History

There are thousands of years of history represented in Jordan, although the modern Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan gained its independence from the British mandate in 1946. From Rabbath Ammon, the Ammonite's capitol, to the Nabataeans' Petra and then the Roman's Jerash/Gerasa, Jordan has a long and colorful story of intertwining empires and rulers.

3. Politics

Let's just say it's....interesting. With its neighboring countries, regional politics can be between (famously) Iraq and a hard place. Although Jordan is one of two Mid East countries with a treaty with Israel, a majority of the population identify themselves as Palestinian. The HKJ is a constitutional monarchy (King Abdullah with PM Rifai) with representative government; in 2009 King Abdullah had dissolved the parliament and the following 2010 parliamentary elections made for some riveting reading indeed. Politically, Jordan is viewed as a very stable country. Furthermore, the politics of the region will continue to play an important role in the States and Jordan seems a good place to gain a better perspective on the region.

4. Travel

It is centrally located with many tourist attractions nearby. Jordan itself has some beautiful scenery and is a growing tourist destination.

5. Arabic

After three years of Latin, two of Spanish and enough French, German, and Italian to recognise all the important words in arias and lieder I want to study a non-Romance language. Since my favorite languages are German and Hebrew, it makes sense to study Arabic which has similar aural features. It also has a complex grammar; surprisingly, the conlangs I made years ago have many similarities to its root/stem pattern, phonology, and noun state and cases. Plus, Arabic, in one form or another of its dialects, is widely spoken. The program will be challenging: 9 hours of MSA and 3 of the Jordanian dialect a week. I'm looking forward to immersing myself in something besides science....I have four more years to do that!

6. Food

The national dish is mansaf: rice, lamb, and yogurt. All these are things that I like to eat. Sounds promising!

Details

Orientation begins in 7 days and lasts a week. After which, classes will start. The only classes I know for sure I will be taking are Beginning Modern Standard Arabic I and Beginning Jordanian Dialect I. I hope to take Archeology of Jordan and Modern History of the Middle East; however, these classes may or may not be what I'll be taking. My third choice is Economic Transformations....after which my choice list falls precipitously off a cliff before I would want to encounter a class on Arab Women Writers or Islam in the Modern Context.

I'll be in a homestay; however, I won't know anything about the family until the end of orientation. Do you know how difficult it is to shop for an entire family you know nothing about? And how many photo books of Iowa and Ohio - of all places - are filled with pictures of people in bathing suits? Why? Iowa is not known for its glorious coastal views. I have settled on some nice tea and local home-goods.

My mailing address (the fourth in nine months!) is:

My name

C/O CIEE

POB 134134

University of Jordan

P.O. Box 134134

Amman, 11942

Amman is GMT + 2, thus 8 hours ahead of home.

I will try to post and schedule a few explanatory posts until I have something more substantive. With the uncertain internet and orientation, it will be a a few weeks until I have real updates.